Let Us Go On A Traditional Fabric-Art Trail Of India

The textile market may have been taken over by powerlooms, but handloom and unique fabric designing is the traditional heritage of India. It is an art that can never be forgotten, a quality that is still demanded by the public. India is a nation where diversification has no boundaries, and every State has its own kind of techniques with textiles, each different from the other. Here's a compilation of some of the most unique fabric works of the country.

Chikankari

Here is a traditional embroidery work that is simple yet makes a loud statement. Chikankari, an art from Lucknow that flourished in India during the reign of the Mughals. The making of Chikan is a tedious process, that involves determining the design, then block printing it on the cloth and then it is hand embroidered by tracing over the marks. The finished garment is checked precisely and then washed to remove the trace marks. A feature that distinguishes Chikankari from other works is the perfect embroidery. Each and every stitch is done perfectly on delicate cloth, something that is difficult to find elsewhere. Flower motifs remain the main element of Chikankari since the earliest times. At that time, Muslin (malmal) cloth was used as a base, but, now this embroidery is done on cotton, silk, chiffon, organza and net as well.

Pashmina

A handloom that belongs to the crown of India, Jammu & Kashmir is the Pashmina. An amazing feature of Pashmina is that it is thin, light yet feels warm when wrapped around the body. Pashmina shawls are popular worldwide, and Pashmina is made from natural coat sheds of a goat named Capra Hircus, found in Ladakh. It evolved under the patronage of different rulers. The intricate work and embroidery of these shawls is the ultimate glory of Kashmir and it takes 5-12 months for a single shawl to be woven. Power looms are used to make Pashmina shawls nowadays, and they cannot be called ‘Pashmina’, since the name only implies hand spinning and weaving.

Kunbi Sarees

In the handloom section of Goa lies the Kunbi Saree, a traditional attire of the Kunbi tribe. A perfect example of simplicity etched in style, it's a cotton, lightweight apparel that can be freely worn during summers without having to worry about sweating. Although it was traditionally designed to be worn by farm worker women, now, it is worn as a formal, classy attire at functions. The colour combination in which it was formally dyed included a red base checkered with black, yellow and purple, not to forget that naturally extracted colours were used. Nowadays, it is woven with pastel colors too, and has received great admiration and response from the people.

Although the Kunbi saree experienced a downfall during the Portuguese reign, it was revived with the efforts of the Kunbi tribe and the Goa government after liberation. Fashion designer Wendell Rodricks also incorporated a modified version of the Kunbi saree into his designs, thus being a major upliftment. This old handloom has truly grown to become a treasured possession of the Goans over time.

Read more about the unique and interesting features of the Kunbi Saree!

Bandhani

Bandhani is a tye and dye form of art dating back to the Indus Valley Civilization. It is a highly skilled process in which the cloth (either Georgette or Muslin (malmal) is used) is tied in various ways as per the designs needed. Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari are the kind of patterns seen on a Bandhani textile. Elaborate motifs are made in this work, which include flowers, creepers, bells and jalas (net). All colours used in the making of Bandhani are natural. Since the cloth is hand-dyed, the best color combinations and the most unique designs can be seen on a Bandhani apparel.

Shisha

Who knew that Indians would incorporate glass in fabric weaving? Shisha literally means glass. It is a traditional fabric craft from Rajasthan where small pieces of mirrors of various sizes and shapes like circular, square, triangular and polygonal, are decoratively stitched into place on the base fabric. It flourished under the Mughal patronage in the 17th century, although the Mughals never wore clothes with Shisha embroidery.

Today, such glass work can be seen on sarees, cushion covers, belts, bags, caps, torans etc. It has a religious significance of being known to drive evil forces away, and for this purpose, every Rajasthani household has a toran with Shisha work in their house. It is truly one of the most attractive forms of embroidery in India.

Kasavu Saree

One of the most classic handlooms of India, is the Kasavu saree from Kerala. It's a plain, naturally cream coloured saree with a shimmery gold coloured border. It is an auspicious attire for all women in Kerala, that is especially associated with their new year. The origin of the Kasavu saree dates dates back to the Buddhist era. The style of wearing Kasavu saree has slightly changed with time, it used to be worn in a way slightly different from the typical saree. The pallu displays motifs of ethnic and religious significance on it. Kasavu embroidery has gone beyond sarees by imprinting themselves onto garments like salwar kameez, skirts, kurtis etc. Diamonds and check shaped motifs are included in the innovations. More colors like green and red are incorporated in the golden border, thus enhancing the look.

Phulkari

Phulkari is a quirky art from Punjab that finds its origin in the story of Heer-Ranjha. ‘Phulkari’ literally means ‘flower-work’. The work is carried out by spinning on the charkha, it involves designing on the reverse side of the cloth that in turn produces a beautiful result on the upper side. It is found on dinis, shawls, kurtis, chunris and owning something made out of phulkari weaving is delighting to every Punjabi girl. It is done using bright colors. A number of motifs characterize Phulkari and they are made according to the occasion for which the apparel will be used. In Punjab, the weaving of Phulkari is associated with family traditions. When a male child is born, his grandmother weaves a fabric with Phulkari work, only to be worn by his wife in the future.

All these textile arts have their own beautiful techniques, intricacies and stories behind them. Which of these works surprised you the most?

Let us know in the comments section below!