Banarasi Brocade Sarees

Brocade fabric is a native of the holiest cities of India, Banaras, or Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh (UP), India. UP has been a centre of brocade and textiles since ancient times. The word brocade is derived from the Latin word bronchus that means to transfix. The Banaras brocade is also known as Kin-khab which literally means a cloth of Gold. It is commonly known as ‘Shivnagari’ in trade terms.

History of Brocade

The brocade weaving centres of India developed in and around the capitals of kingdoms or holy cities due to the demand for expensive fabrics by royal families or temples. Main locations of trade include Banaras, Gujarat, Delhi, Agra and Murshidabad. Northern weavers were greatly influenced, by the brocade weaving regions of eastern and Southern Persia, Turkey, Central Asia and Afghanistan. In fact, the Hiranya cloth mentioned in the Rigveda has been interpreted as the earliest equivalent of the Kinkhab.

Sultan Muhammad Bin Tughlaq kept 500 weavers at Delhi to make gold brocades that were worn by his wives. He also lavishly distributed brocade pieces as royal gifts. In Kashmir, the brocade art was developed by Sultan Zainul-Abidin during the 15th century.

Brocade fabric can be broadly divided into 2 types:

• Loom finish
• Yardage

Loom finish fabric is used for Sarees and other textiles while Yardage fabric is used for dress material, upholstery and curtains.

Brocade Saree

A regular silk saree is woven with the weft thread (zari) wrapped over the warp thread, and the process is continued until a sturdy fabric is created. On the other hand, in a Banarasi Brocade saree, an additional set of gold or silver zari threads are woven into the fabric to create different patterns. These fabrics are hand woven and a traditional loom is used for the same purpose.

Patterns & Colours:

Patterns involved in the making of brocade are basic patterns of singular objects. The floral forms are known as butas or butis. Other patterns include Badam (Almond) buti, Kairi (Mango) buti, Chaand (Moon) buti, Asharfi (coin) buti, Paan (betel leaf) buti and Pankha (fan) buti. Some patterns are also derived from jewellery.

Another celebrated pattern of Banaras brocade is Jaal or net design, also known as Jangala. It is a pattern that covers the ground of the fabric and owes its origin to Turkish brocades.

Many motifs also owe its origin to religion. Varanasi being a religious destination has a large demand for cloth to be woven for temples. Hence, auspicious symbols and figures of deities also came to be included. Some garments also have religious mantras woven into them.

The importance of colour in brocade making cannot be over emphasized. The charm of it depends on perfect colour synchronization. The colours also denote symbolism. Red means love, yellow is the colour of Basant (spring), Nila (blue) is the colour of Lord Krishna, and Gerua (saffron) refers to the colour of the earth etc. In ancient times, vegetable dyes were used during weaving. These produced rich colours that lasted for almost a generation. Nowadays, chemical dyes have taken over the market owing to the cheap amount and being time saving. A large variety of colours are available and they can be manufactured on a large scale.

The weavers who prepare brocade fabric/sarees are from Varanasi itself. They are known as Karigars. Most of them belong to a Muslim community called Ansaree.

Weaving brocade being their sole source of income, the art of it has passed through generations.

Check out the video on the link below, watch in detail the making of Brocade Sarees!

https://youtu.be/G8FT3f7uglc

The sarees are a prized possession, a lavish garment only worn for weddings and other high end events.

Popularity

Earlier, Banarasi Brocade was sought-after only by the princely states and the aristocratic class of India. In 1947, the industry suffered a setback due to the abolition of princely states. As of present-day, Banarasi Brocade and Sarees are in demand across the globe. The making has evolved in all these years by absorbing techniques from other regions as well.

Most consumers today prefer the authentic, hand woven Brocade sarees from India rather than the cheap, machine woven ones produced in China. To preserve its genuineness, Brocade sarees of India have a Geographical Indication (GI) attached to them. Accordingly, only sarees produced at Varanasi, Mirzapur, Azamgarh, Jaunpur, Chandauli and Bhadohi are the ones that can be labelled as ‘Banarasi Silk Brocade’. It prevents customers from getting cheated and ensures a steady income for the authentic weavers.

Linked below is a video that will guide you on how to check the authenticity of a Brocade Saree. One must be careful not to get deceived by fraudsters while buying expensive, traditional sarees. Check out the video for some great tips!

https://youtu.be/uZE_bAfqy5M